I surf because it keeps my life at an even keel, without it I would tip into the oblivion.
You gotta go in the mud sometimes to figure who you are.
If you dont see me on tour, its because I have found happiness away from winning, and that might be the biggest achievement I could ever accomplish.
I try changing my surfing, which is the absolute worst thing you can do. Everyone surfs their own way. If I try to surf like someone else I look like a dork.
Living a happy life is my main priority. You guys may think I am selfish for "wasting my talent" by staying away from events for a bit, but I am finally at a comfortable place where I can honestly say, if you guys see me out on tour again it's because I am there to win, and I'm going to go 100%.
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