It's not an adventure until something goes wrong.
The word adventure has gotten overused. For me, when everything goes wrong - that's when adventure starts
True adventure begins when everything goes wrong.
Real adventure is defined best as a journey from which you may not come back alive, and certainly not as the same person.
The whole purpose of an adventure is to gain some spiritual or emotional insight. When you compromise the process, you compromise the gain.
Surfing and climbing are both useless sports. You get to be conquistadors of the useless. You climb to the summit and there is nothing there. And you could hike to the top from another direction. How you get there is the important part. It's the same with surfing.
We took special pride in the fact that climbing rocks and icefalls had no economic value in society...We were like a wild species living in the edges of an ecosystem - adaptable, resilient and tough.
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