Surfing is real private. It's a solo, loner sport.
Growing up, I always wanted to be in punk bands, so I'm really enjoying the harder, heavier element. It's always been my dream to have people moshing at my gig, kind of that really feral element of the music coming out more. I love crowd-surfing.
The ocean humbles you. You can go and win a world title, but you're never going to beat the ocean.
The aloha spirit is real simple. You give and you give and you give . . . and you give from here (the heart), until you have nothing else to give.
Surfing's the source. Can change your life. Swear to god
It's a culmination of your life of surfing when you turn and paddle in at Mavericks.
Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true.
It looks easy, like surfing, but surfing is hard too.
The whole surf culture is starting to embrace women a lot more.
Thank God for a few free waves.
I've always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.
Make sure your worst enemy doesn't live between your two ears.
A week of sweeping fogs has passed over and given me a strange sense of exile and desolation. I walk round the island nearly every day, yet I can see nothing anywhere but a mass of wet rock, a strip of surf, and then a tumult of waves.
Out of water, I am nothing.
Surfing is attitude dancing.
Now that I'm older, I like almost anything that's done well, even surf music and instrumentals; I really enjoyed the interviews with the Ventures in your magazine.
Waves are toys from God.
Surfing is like golf: You're always battling, and it keeps knocking you down. There are a lot of wipeouts. But when you stay with it and catch that wave, you really taste it. It's magic.
Since social media has become so big, body image has taken a downward spiral. Especially in surfing, because we're in bikinis all day, we're really critiqued. After a competition, social media will just be talking about who looked better in a bikini instead of who surfed better. It's not even about the results anymore, so much is body. And that's really frustrating at times.
I've been surfing almost as long as I've been playing music.
I love this site. It was lovingly hand-shaped it. Your soul transformed this into this art. It was perfect. I have tried to create another equal to it... but to no avail, so I will just have to paint the Sistine Chapel.
Sometimes things just happen. Sometimes surfing this bank from Snapper to Kirra, sometimes you don't even think what you're doing but you do it anyway ... You get to the end of a wave and go, what did I do? Sometimes you go into a totally different state of mind.
I read one or two other books which gave me a background in mathematics other than logic.
Creating the fictional background for a game world isn't significantly different from creating a background for fiction.
I got into law school to supplement my business background. I'm not planning to practice law.
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