I remember sitting at the end of my mum's bed being fascinated by her ritual of getting dressed. It was a very methodical and considered process. I suppose you could say she was my first real muse.
I've always done the style that I loved, so I didn't mind sending an old pair of jeans down the runway. It's about that style. It's not Hedi Slimane. You know, I'm not all that familiar with his thing-I really don't look. I certainly know who he is.
It's a secret language, known to all different people, in different ways, that enables them to read a subliminal message without realising they're reading it. It affects people on many levels, and even people who think they're not into fashion, or reject fashion are then being informed just in the case of rejecting it. The fact that they had to react against it was a conscious decision.
It falls apart now. They used to be intrinsically linked. Now they've been driven so far apart that I don't think the one has anything to do with the other. Even more so: I think that there is almost a reaction against style, that brute ugliness somehow has been interpreted as being the way to go.
Oh, they've been putting in the long hours ... But is that because they don't have the skills, and everything takes twice as long? Or do they put in these hours to avoid what they should be doing ... which is stopping and binning a lot of [their work]?
I often ask students: 'Is this what you would show Tom Ford?' and they say: 'No, we'd have done more work' or 'We'd have dressed better.' So I say: 'Why don't you do that here?'
A lot of people believe that you don't need to know the history and that creates newness. I disagree: we should always be informed and then destroy it.
Students may feel the criticism is harsh, but I think it's possible they haven't had criticism before. It's my job to point out when something is badly done, or when there's no point of view. To build a brand you have to have something about you. If not personality, then some thought process. I'm 40, and they're young, so they're meant to be informing me. They should be bringing me a book or something that I haven't seen, not like some obscure chant book by Dominican monks, but an image of the way they see the world.
When they first arrive, really, my eyes bleed! It's only when they're about to leave that they become people you might want to know.
In fashion, we don't often know the prices. We don't have time to go into the stores.
You're considered superficial and silly if you are interested in fashion....But I think you can be substantial and still be interested in frivolity.
I want to put a soul in a garment. I don't want my clothes to be perfect, because human beings are not perfect.
Whatever I design, it has to please my eye. If I go to work on an office block, I'll draw the office that I want to walk into. If it's a piece of crystal, it must feel the way I want it to feel in my hand. If it's women's wear, it must be something I'd like to see my wife dressed in.
Fashion is something you attach to yourself, put on, and through that interaction the meaning of it is born. Without the wearing of it, it has no meaning, unlike a piece of art. It is fashion because people want to buy it now, because they want to wear it now, today. Fashion is only the right now.
My school is the world, and my teacher is the people. It is very important not to stay cloistered in the office if you want to create. We have to go out in society to understand how people live and dress in their real lives.
What I want to express is a feeling-various emotions that I am experiencing at the time-whether it is anger or hope or anything else, and from different angles. I construct a collection and it takes concrete form. That's probably what appears conceptual to people because it never starts out with any specific historical or geographical reference. My point of departure is always abstract and multileveled.
My role in all of this is very simple. I make clothing like armor. My clothing protects you from unwelcome eyes.
A beautiful flower does not exist. There's only a moment when a flower looks beautiful.
Enjoy your life, fashion is not that important.
In fashion, general people will look to the piece itself. [Some designers] concentrate on, 'How can I make this seam look special?' or 'What am I going to do with that button so it looks interesting?' I am not interested in that. At the moment, I am more interested in the shape and the form. I have a big desire to make clothes without defining them.
Every jacket I make has interior pockets big enough to store a book and a sandwich and a passport.
50s cheesecake meets Eskimo fake fur.
The sand dunes look like two tits.
Fashion is entertainment. That's why these top models are so fascinating to kids.
My passion for fashion borders on insanity.
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