Surfing teaches patience . On land, surfers cannot will a swell to appear. They have to wait for nature to make the call. So surfers wait . They keep their eyes on the horizon and they wait.
You can't stop the waves, but you can learn to surf.
Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.
Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave.
I'm just a surfer who wanted to build something that would allow me to surf longer.
I'm more of like a recreational surfer, not a consist surfer. Some people get out every week or every day.
I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
My background was art school, documentary director and surfer with a keen interest in thrilling acts of life threatening stupidity.
It's a culmination of your life of surfing when you turn and paddle in at Mavericks.
Life is a lot like surfing… When you get caught in the impact zone, you’ve got to just get back up. Because you never know what may be over the next wave.
Surfers are the ‘throw-aheads’ of mankind, not the dregs; they aren’t the black sheep of humanity, but the futurists and they are leading the way to where man ultimately wants to be. The act of the ride is the epitome of ‘be here now’, and the tube ride is the most acute form of that. Which is: your future is right ahead of you, the past is exploding behind you, your wake is disappearing, your footprints are washed from the sand. It’s a non-productive, non-depletive act that’s done purely for the value of the dance itself. And that is the destiny of man.
Across all countries and cultures surfers are connected not by nationality, religion, politics, age … but by their experience riding waves. This is a powerful experience both in the waves themselves and inside each surfer.
The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.
So we live in an accelerating possibility curve. Perhaps we can't control it, but we can learn to ride it like a surfer on a wave or a bird on a thermal, to use its power to take us where we want to go - to live in uncertainty and yet act with confidence.
For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.
The only thing surfers have in common with the rest of America is they're unemployed and they love crystal meth.
When I'm not working, I dress like a surfer. I look like I'm going to come into your house and clean your pool.
I look for a good story. Usually the best stories are the ones that are unbelievably true. 'Soul Surfer' is one of those stories.
I`ve always thought of him [Barack Obama] and from conversations know him to be a guy who takes the long view, who doesn`t get too high, doesn`t get too low and seizes the opportunities when they`re there and knows how to ride the wave. I ascribe that to Hawaii. He`s a body surfer, so he knows how to get on the wave. He knows just the right time.
And if God were trying to reach out to us, and teach us something about the deepest nature of matter, he might use some drugged-out surfers.
There is wisdom in waves. Some surfers see it right away, others never do. To find success in surfing, we must learn to be in harmony with nature. This will bring a sense of peace. By sharing this peace, and contributing to other people's happiness, we can find the true meaning of life. Keep surfing . . .
Surfers are in tune with the weather because if there's a storm coming, there are waves coming. I love the rain.
It's funny, 'cause you think surfing is your whole life, but then when you make a family it seems like it's not at all.
You can read minds, and you didn't tell me?” Link stared at me like he just found out I was the Silver Surfer. He rubbed his head nervously. “Hey, man, all that stuff about Lena? I was yankin’ your chain.” He looked away. “Are you doin’ it now? You're doin’ it, aren't you? Dude, get out of my head.” He backed away from me and into the bookshelf. “I can't read your mind, you idiot.
I'm the worst surfer in California. My balance is off from boxing.
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