We play in the ocean every day but for some reason we don’t make as much noise about the environment as we should. I believe the average surfer needs to do a lot more to become a greater catalyst for change
Cornwall has lots of folk and Celtic music and has that kind of surfer vibe as well. That was my kind of upbringing.
Surfing also teaches quality . I will wager that it is not the number of waves that makes a session memorable for any given surfer, but that one beautiful wave that he or she waited for … and rode all the way the way to shore.
All surfers are joined by one ocean.
I'm a surfer at heart. Both my parents moved to Hawaii in the 1970s, where they met and became Christians. Then they taught me and my two brothers how to love the Lord - and how to surf!
Growing up in Huntington Beach, you were either a traditional sports athlete, a skateboarder, or a surfer. I got my first skateboard when I was five and skated off and on over the years, did a little BMX racing as a kid, and then in my freshman or sophomore year I started getting a little bit more into skateboarding.
Many people bypass search engines altogether and still find what they're looking for online. These Internet surfers are using direct navigation.
I was a good surfer because we grew up a block from the water, and my father took us to the ocean the way other fathers take their kids to the park.
Now, see, that's why you want Internet friends. You can find people just exactly like you. Screw your neighbors and your family, too messy...the trouble is, once you filter out everybody that doesn't agree with you, all that's left is maybe this one retired surfer guy living in Idaho.
Surfers are in tune with the weather because if there's a storm coming, there are waves coming. I love the rain.
I do feel a kinship for sure. I admire those guys who've won hat-tricks like Andy, and obviously Kelly who's won seven, that's amazing stuff. I think the average surfer thinks it's amazing. The guys who win our championships, they're so amazing.
In Blue Crush , we meet three Hawaiian surfers who work as hotel maids, live in a grotty rental, and are raising the kid sister of one of them. Despite this near-poverty, they look great; there is nothing like a tan and a bikini to overcome class distinctions.
It's true. Happiness is a big thing.
It's funny, 'cause you think surfing is your whole life, but then when you make a family it seems like it's not at all.
It was like a big family, since so many of us brought our kids. We all went surfing. It was so relaxed and easy.
Why is it that scuba divers and surfers are some of the strongest advocates of ocean conservation? Because they've spent time in and around the ocean, and they've personally seen the beauty, the fragility, and even the degradation of our planet's blue heart.
Surfer girls rip and they are hot
There is wisdom in waves. Some surfers see it right away, others never do. To find success in surfing, we must learn to be in harmony with nature. This will bring a sense of peace. By sharing this peace, and contributing to other people's happiness, we can find the true meaning of life. Keep surfing . . .
And if God were trying to reach out to us, and teach us something about the deepest nature of matter, he might use some drugged-out surfers.
You can read minds, and you didn't tell me?” Link stared at me like he just found out I was the Silver Surfer. He rubbed his head nervously. “Hey, man, all that stuff about Lena? I was yankin’ your chain.” He looked away. “Are you doin’ it now? You're doin’ it, aren't you? Dude, get out of my head.” He backed away from me and into the bookshelf. “I can't read your mind, you idiot.
I'd blurted out the question only to keep him from noticing that I was working my hands free, but the Warden behind me, some young brown-haired surfer dude, yelled a warning. "She's getting loose!" Narc.
I want to surf better tomorrow. I want to surf better in 10 years. When I'm 50 I want to be a better surfer than I am now - for me it's a lifelong journey.
Surfers are members of a different race of people from the man in the street
I'm seeking out a new way to live and if it's surfing, that's the way I'll do it. I'll be a surfer for the rest of my life.
A couple from Sydney or Melbourne might leave on the same day for their holiday: the wife might go sun-bathing at Surfers Paradise, in Queensland, the husband ski-ing in the Snowy Mountains. A lucky country.
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